I have zero barbeque street cred — first, I’m from New England, and, second, this pulled pork never saw the inside of a smoker. Never saw the outside, either, because we ...
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Come on, Ride the Train (little helen’s big gravy).
Erma Bombeck said that she “came from a family where gravy is considered a beverage.” I come from a family where gravy is considered a little bit of magic. The conjurer is my Aunt Helen. She’s called “Little Helen,” well, because there were two Helen’s, and Little Helen was the more vertically challenged of the [...]
Is There Sugar in Syrup? Then Yes. (grandma freed’s buttermilk pancakes).
My Dad’s family is from Ohio, and from his mother come the very best pancakes I’ve ever tasted. I’ve tried a bunch of other recipes, and none can touch Grandma Freed’s. My Dad made it his mission to learn how to make pancakes from her before she passed away, and he has become a master. Our Ohio [...]
Salty Broad (four & twenty blackbirds salted caramel apple pie).
I love salt. I love salt. I love salt. I love salt so much that people bring it to me as gifts. I love salt so much that we have well over a dozen different salts in the spice cabinet at any given time. Baking, however, I don’t love. More accurately — baking intimidates me. [...]
One If By Clam (zuppa de clams).
Once when I was little my father made zuppa de clams when company was coming over for dinner. It was awesome. We even went out and bought special bowls for it. The bowls were a big deal — unlike me, who cares deeply about having the right kitchen tool for the right kitchen job [...]
Bowled Over (blt steak popovers).
When I decide to cook I typically read about ten recipes, chose highlights from 3 or 4 of them, and combine them. In fact, I can’t think of a time in recent memory where I haven’t a least messed with the recipe I’m making — except with this one. This recipe I follow almost to [...]
The Girl I Love (fresh green bloody marys).
We are the owners of an Omega vert juicer. A high-end juicer is a frivolous kitchen appliance if there ever was one. They are expensive, they take up quite a bit of countertop real estate, and (no matter what the manufacturer says) they are annoying to clean. But if you believe in the benefits of fresh, green juice, a [...]
Woody’s.
There is a joint in Hartford that proves that good food and hard work will ultimately triumph, no matter the location. Woody’s is a hot dog place located inside an office building that seems empty except for Woody’s. You enter from a sort of alley. It’s hard to find. It’s weird. But Woody’s has been around since it began with [...]
The Lady of Shallot (french four “onion” soup).
Exactly two years in a row exactly, on December 8th, I made french onion soup. This wasn’t deliberate, and I didn’t notice the coincidence until after this year’s soup was already underway. I caught this only because I believe in the brutally slow caramelization process, and so had set myself up in the kitchen with a stool and our [...]
Roederer blanc de blancs.
Today Robin and I attended the Saturday wine tasting at Hartford’s terrific wine shop, Spiritus. It was their annual Roederer champagne tasting, so we tried everything from Roederer’s entry-level Brut Premere through their blingy flagship Cristal (Did you know Jay-Z banned Cristal?). I’d never tasted Cristal, and frankly was suspect going in due to the hype and the [...]
Filet me (steak kristen’s way, with beurre rouge).
Kristen and I don’t eat a ton of steak. But, occasionally we crave it, and when we do I tend to cook filets because for me, when it comes to steak, texture trumps flavor. But make this recipe with whatever cut you love. When we serve red meat — whether it is filet or ground beef — [...]

